Set in a minuscule beach town between Bilbao and San Sebastian where every restaurant seems to be a destination, Elkano is legendary for fish. It’s a very simple recipe. Chef/owner Aitor Arregui gets all his seafood locally and then cooks it over a battery of grills fuelled by charcoal made from oak. The specialty is turbot, barbecued in a grill basket with a few squirts of a secret mix of oil, vinegar, and salt created by Arregui’s grandmother. Arregui maintains that part of the secret is to have the turbot skin blister enough for the flames to flavour the meat itself. Before he serves the meaty, lightly smoky fish, Arregui picks out the bones and adds another generous drizzle of the family’s secret oil.