Maaemo; Oslo, Norway

Maaemo; Oslo, Norway

 

An unexpected dining destination, Maaemo is in a modern office block near Oslo’s main station. The views are of railway tracks, and the soundtrack is of passing trains. Yet Maaemo is worth a trip to Norway, a country of great natural beauty. It holds three Michelin stars, the only Norwegian restaurant to receive that accolade. The cuisine might loosely be called new Nordic in the sense that it uses local ingredients and employs cooking techniques, such as pickling, that are necessary in such a cold climate. But chef Esben Holmboe Bang has his own voice, independent of culinary fashion. There are just eight tables in the main dining room, so good luck getting one. If you do, you might experience lightly frozen fresh cheese with smoked wild salmon eggs and langoustines served with dry ice to create a mist that smells of Norwegian pine.

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