A throwback dining room on a remote coast in a small city sounds as if it would be the newest Nordic spot to capture food lovers’ attention. Instead, this is a restaurant in Canada, a country that doesn’t show up frequently on gourmet to-do lists. Raymonds, under the stewardship of chef Jeremy Charles, makes the seafood and game of eastern Canada wildly compelling. An avid fisherman and hunter, Charles serves house-made moose finocchio (salami), thick, sweet local sea scallops with a garnish of smoked roe, and woodsy wild partridge with tart elderberry sauce. Even the wine list, focusing on top producers nationwide, makes you want to celebrate Canada.